Saturday, August 06, 2011

Jewelry Designers Glossary, Part 8 - En to Ey

We've now reached the letter E in my occasional series of jewelry terms, which I began back in January. In the last issue, Glossary Part 7, we covered Ear Cuffs to Emeralds and today I'll be looking at terms beginning with En to Ey. Many of the contemporary handcrafted jewelry pieces illustrated below were made by members the Jewelry on Etsy (JET) team and are available for purchase on Etsy

Enamel Flower and Sterling Silver Earrings
by cooljewelrydesign
E is for…

Enamel
Used to add decorative colour to jewellery, enamel is a vitreous pigment of metallic oxide mixed with powdered glass that is melted at extremely high temperatures to fuse it to metal, glass or ceramic
The fused enamel lies flush with or slightly raised above the surface, and the colours and transparency of the fused glass will depend on the metal oxides used and the temperature during firing (see Cloisonne, Part 4)

Enamel Bracelet
A bracelet crafted from metal and set with enamel work



End Cap
A bead that fits over the end of a length of beading wire, to provide a neat finish or to hide the knots in a piece


2 band Silver Engagement Ring
by thebeadgirl
Engagement Ring
A gemstone ring traditionally given to a woman by a man to signify their intention to be married

English Cut
This term usually refers to a 19th century round diamond cut with 58 facets, similar to the round Brilliant Cut we have today. Old-mine and old European cuts were deep-cut with small tables and relatively large culets, while the round English Cut had a shallower crown and pavilion and a larger table

The term English Cut is also sometimes used to refer to moulded round beads with large irregular mould marks

Engraving
Hand Engraved Monogram Necklace
by JBowerEngraving
Engraving is a method of surface decoration in which a design is etched into the surface with a sharp tool. It is a laborious, difficult and painstaking art so most engraving these days is done by laser or machine. However, the traditional skills of hand engraving are still pursued by gifted master craftsmen, including JBowerEngraving

Historically, engravers worked by pushing the blades with their hands or "chasing" it with a hammer, but today the assistance of an air powered hand piece helps to relieve physical strain and aids in more precise cuts. It is a skill that requires a lot of concentration. If the blade isn't properly sharpened, or the angle of the cut is not right, the metal will rip or gouge leaving ugly & uneven lines - there is no erasing and no salvaging so one missed move and the piece is ruined - and the artist has to start all over again

Blue Topaz Sterling Silver Enhancer
by TexasBeadz
Enhancer
A jewellery finding with a hinged bale that can be opened or closed, enabling it to fit on a chain without needing to slide over the clasp

En Tremblant
A moveable, trembling effect generally achieved through the use of coiled springs of metal, often found in antique brooches and hair ornaments, and more recently in fascinators and bridal tiaras



New Estate Pendant
by WearableByDesign
Epoxy
A resin used in strong glues and enamels

Escapement Files
Very small or fine abrasive files, often smaller than needle files, that are used in traditional silversmithing and jewellery making

Estate Jewellery
People often think that this means that the jewellery comes from a stately home or aristocratic family estate, but in actual fact the term "Estate Jewellry" simply means pieces that have been previously owned

Etching
Etching is the process of creating a pattern or design on metal, and is achieved either by using harsh chemicals to eat into the surface, or by cutting into the surface using a sharp tool. An etched finish on the surface of a metal reduces the metal's reflectivity

Etched Brass Pendant
by BrookeJewelry

Eterna Gold
A trademarked name for a type of 14k gold that is more durable and more resistant to tarnishing than other 14k gold products

Eternity Ring
An eternity ring is a narrow ring band set all around with gemstones

Etruscan Revival
Etruscan revival was a style of jewellery, popular in the 19th century, that drew inspiration from the archeological discoveries at Herculaneum and Pompeii

18ct gold French Etui
Seaford Antiques
Etui
An etui is a small decorative case, often worn on a chatelaine(see Chatelaine, Part 3) to carry small items like pencils, scissors, manicure set, or spectacles. Also referred to as necessaire

European Cut
The European cut is an old fashioned round diamond cut similar to, but less bright than, the more recent Brilliant cut. It has a very small table and a heavy crown

European Earwires
A curved earwire which passes through a pierced ear and clasps shut. Also referred to as Continental Earwires

Evergreen Topaz
This deep green stone is a trademarked type of diffusion-treated topaz, produced by heating a cut, colourless topaz with mineral oxides to create a thin layer of green coating on the outside of the stone

Antique European Cut Diamond Eternity Ring
AC Silver
Excelsior Diamond
The Excelsior (which means "higher") was a blue white diamond found at the De Beers mine at Jagersfontein in South Africa in 1893. It weighed about 995 carats and was not actually mined, but spotted in a shovel of gravel being loaded onto a truck. The worker who found it was rewarded with £500, a horse, a saddle and a bridle for his honesty

The diamond is said to have been named after its shape, which was flat on one side and peaked on the other. It was shipped to London but, possibly because of its extraordinary size, no buyer could be found. The Excelsior was eventually cut into 21 stones by Asscher and Co of Amsterdam into 21 gemstones, ranging in size from 70 carats to less than 1 carat, and in the process almost 63% of the weight of the diamond was lost

Extender Chain
Eye Agate Beads
by carriegems
An extension chain which attaches to another chain, such as a necklace or bracelet, to enable the length to be adjusted and extended

Eye Agate
An agate that, when it is cut at a certain angle, reveals a series of concentric rings resembling an eye. Unlike other agates which are categorized by their colour, eye agate is distinguished by its pattern and comes in a variety of colour

Eye Beads
Eye beads are a common amulet for warding off the evil eye, and generally have a dot or circle symbolising an eye

Eye Pin
A straight length of metal wire with a loop on one end, used to stack beads and charms to make dangles, earrings and bead links

Previous issues of my Jewellery Glossary are accessible from my Archive page. In the next edition I'll be starting the letter F with a look at some of the fabulous creations by the Russian court jeweller, Faberge


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