Jewelry Designers Glossary, Part 8 - En to Ey
We've now reached the letter E in my occasional series of jewelry terms, which I began back in January. In the last issue, Glossary Part 7, we covered Ear Cuffs to Emeralds and today I'll be looking at terms beginning with En to Ey. Many of the contemporary handcrafted jewelry pieces illustrated below were made by members the Jewelry on Etsy (JET) team and are available for purchase on Etsy
E is for…
Enamel
Used to add decorative colour to jewellery, enamel is a vitreous pigment of metallic oxide mixed with powdered glass that is melted at extremely high temperatures to fuse it to metal, glass or ceramic
The fused enamel lies flush with or slightly raised above the surface, and the colours and transparency of the fused glass will depend on the metal oxides used and the temperature during firing (see Cloisonne, Part 4)
Enamel Bracelet
A bracelet crafted from metal and set with enamel work
End Cap
A bead that fits over the end of a length of beading wire, to provide a neat finish or to hide the knots in a piece
Engagement Ring
A gemstone ring traditionally given to a woman by a man to signify their intention to be married
English Cut
This term usually refers to a 19th century round diamond cut with 58 facets, similar to the round Brilliant Cut we have today. Old-mine and old European cuts were deep-cut with small tables and relatively large culets, while the round English Cut had a shallower crown and pavilion and a larger table
The term English Cut is also sometimes used to refer to moulded round beads with large irregular mould marks
Engraving
Engraving is a method of surface decoration in which a design is etched into the surface with a sharp tool. It is a laborious, difficult and painstaking art so most engraving these days is done by laser or machine. However, the traditional skills of hand engraving are still pursued by gifted master craftsmen, including JBowerEngraving
Historically, engravers worked by pushing the blades with their hands or "chasing" it with a hammer, but today the assistance of an air powered hand piece helps to relieve physical strain and aids in more precise cuts. It is a skill that requires a lot of concentration. If the blade isn't properly sharpened, or the angle of the cut is not right, the metal will rip or gouge leaving ugly & uneven lines - there is no erasing and no salvaging so one missed move and the piece is ruined - and the artist has to start all over again
Enhancer
A jewellery finding with a hinged bale that can be opened or closed, enabling it to fit on a chain without needing to slide over the clasp
En Tremblant
A moveable, trembling effect generally achieved through the use of coiled springs of metal, often found in antique brooches and hair ornaments, and more recently in fascinators and bridal tiaras
Epoxy
A resin used in strong glues and enamels
Escapement Files
Very small or fine abrasive files, often smaller than needle files, that are used in traditional silversmithing and jewellery making
Estate Jewellery
People often think that this means that the jewellery comes from a stately home or aristocratic family estate, but in actual fact the term "Estate Jewellry" simply means pieces that have been previously owned
Etching
Etching is the process of creating a pattern or design on metal, and is achieved either by using harsh chemicals to eat into the surface, or by cutting into the surface using a sharp tool. An etched finish on the surface of a metal reduces the metal's reflectivity
Eterna Gold
A trademarked name for a type of 14k gold that is more durable and more resistant to tarnishing than other 14k gold products
Eternity Ring
An eternity ring is a narrow ring band set all around with gemstones
Etruscan Revival
Etruscan revival was a style of jewellery, popular in the 19th century, that drew inspiration from the archeological discoveries at Herculaneum and Pompeii
Etui
An etui is a small decorative case, often worn on a chatelaine(see Chatelaine, Part 3) to carry small items like pencils, scissors, manicure set, or spectacles. Also referred to as necessaire
European Cut
The European cut is an old fashioned round diamond cut similar to, but less bright than, the more recent Brilliant cut. It has a very small table and a heavy crown
European Earwires
A curved earwire which passes through a pierced ear and clasps shut. Also referred to as Continental Earwires
Evergreen Topaz
This deep green stone is a trademarked type of diffusion-treated topaz, produced by heating a cut, colourless topaz with mineral oxides to create a thin layer of green coating on the outside of the stone
Excelsior Diamond
The Excelsior (which means "higher") was a blue white diamond found at the De Beers mine at Jagersfontein in South Africa in 1893. It weighed about 995 carats and was not actually mined, but spotted in a shovel of gravel being loaded onto a truck. The worker who found it was rewarded with £500, a horse, a saddle and a bridle for his honesty
The diamond is said to have been named after its shape, which was flat on one side and peaked on the other. It was shipped to London but, possibly because of its extraordinary size, no buyer could be found. The Excelsior was eventually cut into 21 stones by Asscher and Co of Amsterdam into 21 gemstones, ranging in size from 70 carats to less than 1 carat, and in the process almost 63% of the weight of the diamond was lost
Extender Chain
An extension chain which attaches to another chain, such as a necklace or bracelet, to enable the length to be adjusted and extended
Eye Agate
An agate that, when it is cut at a certain angle, reveals a series of concentric rings resembling an eye. Unlike other agates which are categorized by their colour, eye agate is distinguished by its pattern and comes in a variety of colour
Eye Beads
Eye beads are a common amulet for warding off the evil eye, and generally have a dot or circle symbolising an eye
Eye Pin
A straight length of metal wire with a loop on one end, used to stack beads and charms to make dangles, earrings and bead links
Previous issues of my Jewellery Glossary are accessible from my Archive page. In the next edition I'll be starting the letter F with a look at some of the fabulous creations by the Russian court jeweller, Faberge
 |
| Enamel Flower and Sterling Silver Earrings by cooljewelrydesign |
Enamel
Used to add decorative colour to jewellery, enamel is a vitreous pigment of metallic oxide mixed with powdered glass that is melted at extremely high temperatures to fuse it to metal, glass or ceramic
The fused enamel lies flush with or slightly raised above the surface, and the colours and transparency of the fused glass will depend on the metal oxides used and the temperature during firing (see Cloisonne, Part 4)
Enamel Bracelet
A bracelet crafted from metal and set with enamel work
End Cap
A bead that fits over the end of a length of beading wire, to provide a neat finish or to hide the knots in a piece
 |
| 2 band Silver Engagement Ring by thebeadgirl |
A gemstone ring traditionally given to a woman by a man to signify their intention to be married
English Cut
This term usually refers to a 19th century round diamond cut with 58 facets, similar to the round Brilliant Cut we have today. Old-mine and old European cuts were deep-cut with small tables and relatively large culets, while the round English Cut had a shallower crown and pavilion and a larger table
The term English Cut is also sometimes used to refer to moulded round beads with large irregular mould marks
Engraving
 |
| Hand Engraved Monogram Necklace by JBowerEngraving |
Historically, engravers worked by pushing the blades with their hands or "chasing" it with a hammer, but today the assistance of an air powered hand piece helps to relieve physical strain and aids in more precise cuts. It is a skill that requires a lot of concentration. If the blade isn't properly sharpened, or the angle of the cut is not right, the metal will rip or gouge leaving ugly & uneven lines - there is no erasing and no salvaging so one missed move and the piece is ruined - and the artist has to start all over again
 |
| Blue Topaz Sterling Silver Enhancer by TexasBeadz |
A jewellery finding with a hinged bale that can be opened or closed, enabling it to fit on a chain without needing to slide over the clasp
En Tremblant
A moveable, trembling effect generally achieved through the use of coiled springs of metal, often found in antique brooches and hair ornaments, and more recently in fascinators and bridal tiaras
 |
| New Estate Pendant by WearableByDesign |
A resin used in strong glues and enamels
Escapement Files
Very small or fine abrasive files, often smaller than needle files, that are used in traditional silversmithing and jewellery making
Estate Jewellery
People often think that this means that the jewellery comes from a stately home or aristocratic family estate, but in actual fact the term "Estate Jewellry" simply means pieces that have been previously owned
Etching
Etching is the process of creating a pattern or design on metal, and is achieved either by using harsh chemicals to eat into the surface, or by cutting into the surface using a sharp tool. An etched finish on the surface of a metal reduces the metal's reflectivity
 |
| Etched Brass Pendant by BrookeJewelry |
Eterna Gold
A trademarked name for a type of 14k gold that is more durable and more resistant to tarnishing than other 14k gold products
Eternity Ring
An eternity ring is a narrow ring band set all around with gemstones
Etruscan Revival
Etruscan revival was a style of jewellery, popular in the 19th century, that drew inspiration from the archeological discoveries at Herculaneum and Pompeii
 |
| 18ct gold French Etui Seaford Antiques |
An etui is a small decorative case, often worn on a chatelaine(see Chatelaine, Part 3) to carry small items like pencils, scissors, manicure set, or spectacles. Also referred to as necessaire
European Cut
The European cut is an old fashioned round diamond cut similar to, but less bright than, the more recent Brilliant cut. It has a very small table and a heavy crown
European Earwires
A curved earwire which passes through a pierced ear and clasps shut. Also referred to as Continental Earwires
Evergreen Topaz
This deep green stone is a trademarked type of diffusion-treated topaz, produced by heating a cut, colourless topaz with mineral oxides to create a thin layer of green coating on the outside of the stone
 |
| Antique European Cut Diamond Eternity Ring AC Silver |
The Excelsior (which means "higher") was a blue white diamond found at the De Beers mine at Jagersfontein in South Africa in 1893. It weighed about 995 carats and was not actually mined, but spotted in a shovel of gravel being loaded onto a truck. The worker who found it was rewarded with £500, a horse, a saddle and a bridle for his honesty
The diamond is said to have been named after its shape, which was flat on one side and peaked on the other. It was shipped to London but, possibly because of its extraordinary size, no buyer could be found. The Excelsior was eventually cut into 21 stones by Asscher and Co of Amsterdam into 21 gemstones, ranging in size from 70 carats to less than 1 carat, and in the process almost 63% of the weight of the diamond was lost
Extender Chain
 |
| Eye Agate Beads by carriegems |
Eye Agate
An agate that, when it is cut at a certain angle, reveals a series of concentric rings resembling an eye. Unlike other agates which are categorized by their colour, eye agate is distinguished by its pattern and comes in a variety of colour
Eye Beads
Eye beads are a common amulet for warding off the evil eye, and generally have a dot or circle symbolising an eye
Eye Pin
A straight length of metal wire with a loop on one end, used to stack beads and charms to make dangles, earrings and bead links
Previous issues of my Jewellery Glossary are accessible from my Archive page. In the next edition I'll be starting the letter F with a look at some of the fabulous creations by the Russian court jeweller, Faberge
fabulous info, enjoying the gorgeous photos and creations too!
ReplyDeleteThis is great! I always love your Glossary posts!
ReplyDeleteThanks, this is a helpful post Erica.
ReplyDeleteVery informative and a great read! Thanks for sharing and for including my etched necklace.
ReplyDeleteWhat a great work!
ReplyDeleteAs always, very helpful and surely a "keeper" . Thank you for compiling all of this great info, Erika,
ReplyDeleteI am so glad you put the archive bit at the botttom. I was wondering how on earth we could find the previous posts.
ReplyDeleteE, what a treasure trove of intel useful to anyone, not just folks who make jewelry. Thank you for using my earrings as an example for enamled work. Very helpful information...all.
ReplyDeleteI just love these glossary editions. I always learn something new and it covers my favorite topic of all time -- jewellery!!
ReplyDeleteawesome erika...thank you so much for including my engagement ring set!
ReplyDeleteWonderful Ericka.
ReplyDeleteVery informative post, Thanks Erika!!!
ReplyDeleteWonderful info, thank you for sharing!
ReplyDelete